Best HDMI 2.1 Switch for PS5, Xbox Series X
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One HDMI port, three devices that all deserve it. If a PS5, an Xbox Series X and a gaming PC are fighting over a single input on your TV, an HDMI switch is the fix — but only if it keeps the features those consoles actually output. The trap is that plenty of switches advertise "4K 120Hz" and still quietly downgrade the picture. This guide covers what to check so the switch you buy carries the full signal, not a watered-down version of it.
Do I need an HDMI 2.1 switch for PS5 and Xbox Series X?
If you want 4K at 120Hz, VRR or ALLM from a PS5 or Xbox Series X through a switch, you need a full-bandwidth HDMI 2.1 switch. Both consoles output these modes over HDMI 2.1, which carries up to 48Gbps compared with 18Gbps on HDMI 2.0. An HDMI 2.0 switch will still pass a picture, but it caps you at roughly 4K 60Hz and drops the high-refresh and low-latency gaming features. If you only game at 4K 60Hz or 1080p, HDMI 2.0 is enough. For next-gen 120Hz gaming, HDMI 2.1 is the deciding spec.
The reason comes down to bandwidth. HDMI 2.1 raised the ceiling from HDMI 2.0's 18Gbps to 48Gbps, and that headroom is what makes 4K 120Hz, 8K 60Hz, Variable Refresh Rate and Auto Low Latency Mode possible over one cable (HDMI Forum). The PlayStation 5 supports HDMI 2.1 for 4K 120Hz, VRR and ALLM; the Xbox Series X reaches the same 4K 120Hz output when paired with an HDMI 2.1 display and an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable (console display guide, KTC). Put a switch in the middle of that chain and it has to carry every one of those features, or the chain breaks at the weakest link.
Why does my "4K 120Hz" HDMI switch look worse than plugging in directly?
Many switches labeled 4K 120Hz use controllers rated below the full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 ceiling. At lower bandwidth, the PS5 falls back to chroma subsampling to fit the signal, which softens text and fine detail. The console still reports 120Hz, so the drop is easy to miss. To avoid it, choose a switch that states full 48Gbps bandwidth rather than only a resolution and refresh number, and pair it with an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable.
This is the single most common disappointment with cheaper switches. A port rated around 24Gbps can technically show 4K 120Hz, but to squeeze the signal through it forces chroma subsampling, while a 40Gbps-or-higher controller keeps fuller colour at the same settings (KTC). The PS5 in particular has no Display Stream Compression to fall back on, so the loss shows up directly in the image. The label "4K 120Hz" tells you the resolution and refresh a device will accept — it does not tell you the bandwidth it runs them at. That distinction is the whole game.
The specs that actually matter
Ignore the marketing headline and check these five things in order. The first two decide whether the switch is worth considering at all.
| What to check | What you want | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Bandwidth | Full 48Gbps stated explicitly | Below this, 4K 120Hz gets compressed and detail softens. |
| VRR & ALLM pass-through | Both listed by name | These are the console gaming features; a switch must carry them, not just "support HDMI 2.1." |
| Input count | Enough for every source, plus one spare | A 3-in-1 leaves no room to add a device later; plan for growth. |
| Switching method | Auto-detect and/or remote | Matches how you actually turn devices on and off. |
| Cable | Ultra High Speed HDMI (48Gbps) | The best switch is throttled by an old cable; the whole path must be 2.1-rated. |
1. Bandwidth comes first
A switch should state 48Gbps in plain numbers. If a listing only gives you "4K@120Hz" and never mentions bandwidth, treat that as a missing spec, not a good sign.
2. VRR and ALLM must be named
Variable Refresh Rate reduces tearing and stutter, and Auto Low Latency Mode tells your TV to drop into its low-lag game mode automatically. ALLM is part of the HDMI 2.1 specification, and running it reliably alongside 4K 120Hz or VRR calls for an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable (AWOL Vision). A switch that passes both keeps the console's own gaming behaviour intact end to end.
3. Count your inputs honestly
PS5, Xbox Series X and a gaming PC is already three. Add a soundbar or a streaming stick and you are at four. Buy for the setup you will have in a year, not just the one on your desk today.
4. Switching method should match your habits
Auto-switching jumps to whatever you just powered on — ideal if you play one console at a time. A remote or front-panel button is better when several sources stay on and auto-detect would keep second-guessing. Many switches do both; decide which behaviour is your default.
5. The cable is part of the switch
An Ultra High Speed HDMI cable is what actually certifies the 48Gbps path (HDMI.org). A full-bandwidth switch fed by a 2.0-era cable will still bottleneck. Every link between console and TV needs to be 2.1-rated.
Does an HDMI switch add input lag?
A passive or well-designed HDMI switch does not add meaningful input lag, because it routes the signal rather than reprocessing the image. Perceived lag usually comes from the display's own processing, not the switch. What a switch can affect is feature support: if it does not carry ALLM through to the TV, the TV may not drop into its low-latency game mode automatically, which feels like added delay. A switch that passes ALLM and VRR keeps the console's own low-latency behaviour intact.
Auto-switching or a remote — which is better?
Auto-switching jumps to whichever device you just powered on, which suits a PS5-and-Xbox setup where you turn one console on at a time. A remote gives you manual control, which is better when several sources stay powered at once and auto-detection would keep guessing. Many switches offer both. For most console gamers, auto-switching handles the common case and a remote or front button covers the exceptions.
Choosing your next HDMI switch
Running a PS5 and an Xbox Series X into one TV input? SHERRIVA's 2-in-1 HDMI switch is built for exactly that — full-bandwidth HDMI 2.1 with VRR and ALLM pass-through, so both consoles get the 4K 120Hz signal they output, with no compression tax.
Quick recap
- Need 4K 120Hz, VRR or ALLM from a console? You need a full 48Gbps HDMI 2.1 switch.
- "4K 120Hz" alone isn't enough — confirm the 48Gbps bandwidth number, or expect softened detail.
- VRR and ALLM must be named as pass-through features, not implied by "HDMI 2.1."
- Buy one input more than you need, and match auto-switch vs remote to your habits.
- Use an Ultra High Speed HDMI cable — the path is only as fast as its slowest link.
Specifications referenced from the HDMI Forum and console display documentation. Product capabilities vary by model — check the bandwidth and feature list on any switch before buying.